Irène BACLE

INSTITUT DE RECHERCHE PIERRE FABRE, France.

Head Manager of Sensory Evaluation, R & D, Department of Clinical Research

 irene.bacle@pierre-fabre.com

As in the food industry, sensory analysis has been adapted to cosmetology in several different designs according to the nature and the textures of skin care products to make a complete analysis.

Applied to the skin which is a widely sensitive material, the perceptions are felt at the application and after application giving to the skin measuring sensations: visual, olfactory, tactile and somesthetic.

Sensory Analysis uses various panels, “trained” or “naives”, according to the study using either descriptive or hedonistic tests.

For descriptive tests, in a laboratory where light, air and water temperatures meet standard conditions, about 15 to 20 females or men are trained to recognise and assess sensations  from a large range of skin care textures, from very liquid to firm such as lotions, milks, creams, butters… For hygiene or hair shampoo, they are trained to measure products from low to high foaming and also rinsing abilities. For men’s skin care, men can be trained to assess shaving creams… The skin and the hair are two different materials and give specific perceptions. So, the terms to describe a product are not the same for these cosmetic products.

To not taking into consideration the skin types (oily, middle, normal, dry or very dry which can widely influence perceptions), comparative assessments are preferred than monadic.

Once the panels have been well trained, they then carry out the sensory profiles of the products.

The aim of the studies are to guide the formulator through the best texture possible, by comparing it to a known home product or to a competitors product.

Then the study product is given to “naïve” panel, more than 60 targeted consumers, used to buying this kind of product, to be used in a blind home-use-test and to collect their agreement level comparing it to their own cosmetic product.

Sensory Analysis has became an essential methodology in research and development departments of large cosmetic companies.

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